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My brother-in-law's mother, who came from a Jewish community in Iraq, cooks this way all the time, using a few insanely delicious spice blends to add instant depth to her food, without having to open half-a-dozen jars every time. Maybe I just need to cook Persian carrots more often. I had no yufka. I had no nigella seeds.


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When I whisked together the yogurt, milk, egg, and melted butter mixture to brush the phyllo layers with, the cold yogurt made the melted butter solidify into tiny clumps that coated the pastry brush and made evenly coating the dough near-impossible. I layered and brushed as best I could, then put the baking dish in the oven, hoping it would magically transform into something cheesy, buffalo-y, chewy, and crisp. Then I made hummus, which takes 5 seconds once the chickpeas are tender. Not content to merely outclass Sabra, the recipe in Soframiz also had me brown some ground lamb with allspice, black pepper, tomato, and harissa to spoon on top of the hummus.

This made me glad—several Israelis were coming for dinner and the hummus must be spectacular to even warrant a raised eyebrow from them. Dinnertime was approaching and I still hadn't even started the salad—or my sister's rosewater-scented almond birthday cake. As much as I wanted to try one of the sweet recipes in Soframiz, I was experiencing Thanksgiving-caliber levels of multi-tasking psychosis, so I called my brother-in-law to bring a matcha mille-crepe cake from Lady M instead.

With my burden lightened, I turned to the Green Apple Fattoush, and drizzled what seemed like a ridiculous amount of olive oil over cute little squares of cubed pita, rubbing the oil into the bread until it wasn't just coated, but saturated. A quick trip to the oven, and soon they were frying right in their own oil.

The rest of the recipe was simple—chopped parsley and mint, romaine, cucumber and radishes—but the photo in the book featured bright-pink cubes that didn't seem to be listed in the ingredients.

Soframiz: Vibrant Middle Eastern Recipes from Sofra Bakery and Cafe

Luckily, I immediately identified them as the beet-stained pickled turnips that my brother-in-law always stocks in his fridge, so I cubed a few of those for the salad, too. Current score: Dining table 0, Adina 1.

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The parade of dishes completely covered the table and scooted people's plates closer to their laps. No one complained—until it came to the borek. It emerged from the oven sizzling and golden brown, but at the table the sham was revealed: Underneath the superficial layer of crispy phyllo was a molten sea of watery yogurt and tangy mozzarella. Some folks were repulsed; others had seconds.

But no one was ambivalent about the lamb-topped hummus. When people weren't actively spooning it onto their plates or scooping it up with pita, they were craftily eyeing it to plot their next helping. Soon it was gone, and I hadn't had nearly enough of it. The only consolation?

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